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Historically, camel breeders and traders, the Tuareg ruled the trade routes that crossed the Sahara and brought gold, silver, ivory and slaves to the north. Tuareg traders also staged raids on other trade caravans and groups of herders. The Tuareg have traditionally refused to integrate with other Berber tribes, fiercely maintaining their Berber ways as well as their own distinctive style. The Tuareg are known as the Blue Men of the Sahara because the indigo used to dye their voluminous robes rubs off on their skin. The color is not fast because the dye is beaten into the cloth so as to conserve precious water - this method also gives the cloth a metallic sheen. More information about the history, culture and music of the Tuaregs is available. |
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Tuareg Jewelry
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Tuareg designs are geometric and clean-cut reflecting the austerity of desert life: Because of the Tuareg's relative isolation, these designs have not been altered much over time. The motifs are repeated in jewelry, leatherwork and embroidery. Tuareg jewelry is worked exclusively in silver, the metal of the Prophet Mohamed as gold is considered impure. It is said that there is a Tuareg tribe with extrasensory powers; the only way they can lose these powers is to simply look upon gold. |
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The smiths/jewelry-makers of the Tuareg are believed to be descended from the Jews via Morocco and are considered by the Tuareg to be a race apart -despised as inferior yet respected for their craftsmanship. They are paid with food and sometimes money, and while usually attached to a particular master or family, they are, unlike slaves, free to work for whomever they choose. The smiths also perform cattle branding and circumcision, and their wives make the leather objects used by the Tuareg. |
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Tuareg crosses, these days worn by women, were once only worn by men, passed down from father to son with the words, "I give you the four corners of the world because one cannot know where one will die." According to Muslim belief the four points of the cross disperse evil to the four corners of the earth. Some will see similarities between the Tuareg cross and the ancient Egyptian ankh. In times of drought these crosses are used as currency to buy cattle, cloth or food. Crosses incorporating the phallus and circle are said to be powerful fertility talismans. |
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Carnelian beads (tanfouk), which bring good luck and protection, are strung together with silver crosses. Triangular carnelian beads may have come from India via trading or pilgrimage routes. In Mauritania, these carnelian beads are woven into women's braids, especially popular among the Guedra dancers. The carnelian (a form of quartz) is valued for its ability to heal blood disorders and when worn on the finger can staunch wounds and nosebleeds. (Check out the prices for the items pictured and place an order). |
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Tuareg women also wear necklaces (khomissar), made of shell and leather or silver in the form of a geometric hand which protects the wearer and ensures fertility; they are passed down from mother to daughter. Silver finger rings (tisek) are usually gifts of affection between men and women. |
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