Recipes

You will find that the subject of recipes is one of the most hotly contested in the field of henna. My recipe is not the only one and it may or may not be the best, but through much research and experimentation I have found a mixture that works wonderfully. The most important ingredient no matter what your recipe, is good quality henna. It should be fresh and green; the brighter the green the fresher the henna. And, to avoid clogs, your henna should be finely sifted; the powder should be the consistency of talcum powder. Another very important element of a good henna recipe is experimentation; each person's skin takes the henna differently and gives a different stain. A lot depends on differences in skin thickness, body chemistry, the time of the month, levels of stress and body heat. The best way to find a recipe and method that works for you is to experiment.

My recipe is essentially a Moroccan one, taught to me by a neqasha in the old section of Rabat, Morocco, and it is as follows:

Moroccan Henna Paste

• fresh, green, finely sifted henna

• 1/2 cup lemon juice

• 2-3 tablespoons of whole cloves

• sugar

In a saucepan, heat the lemon juice and cloves over a low heat. Allow to simmer for 30-60 minutes. Remove the saucepan from the heat and strain the lemon juice through a coffee filter.  In a ceramic bowl, put a few tablespoons of henna powder and add to it a teaspoon or two of the warm lemon juice mixture and a teaspoon of sugar. (the proportions should be roughly one part henna powder, 2 parts liquid and 1/2 part sugar) Mix this well until it forms a paste. Continue adding a little liquid at a time and mix it in completely, until you get the consistency you want. Some say the consistency of toothpaste is best but it is better to err on the side of too thick - you can always add more liquid later.

Start with fresh, finely sifted henna powder	Add sugar	and lemon juice
Mix ingredients, adding lemon juice as needed	Continue until your paste has the consistency of yogurt; it should dribble slowly from your spatula/spoon

At this point I suggest straining the paste to get rid of any lumps that form from the mixing of dry and wet ingredients. I prefer to strain it through a knee-hi stocking. I first put a plastic sandwich bag over the opening in a drinking glass, just to hold it upright. Then I put the stocking over the glass in the same way so that the toe of the stocking hangs down into the sandwich bag. I then scrape the henna out of the bowl and into the stocking which is being held open by the glass. Once it is all in, I pull the sandwich bag off the glass along with the stocking and using the bag to keep the henna off my hands, I pull and squeeze the henna down through the stocking and into the bag while pulling the stocking out of the bag (like milking a cow very strongly). I repeat this to make sure I get everything out. Then I squeeze the bag to get all the paste down to one corner of the bag and tie the open part of the bag off with a twist-tie, snip off the corner and squeeze the paste into my bottles.

Put a plastic sandwich bag into a glass with one corner pointing downward; stretch a knee-hi stocking over the glass with the toe in the corner of the bag
Scrape the paste into the stocking; try to get most of the paste down into the toe of the stocking
Grasp the bag tightly right above the henna paste; pull the stocking out of the bag while squeezing; the idea is to pull the paste through the stocking into the bag using the bag to keep the paste from staining your skin		Snip off the tip of the bag to create an opening of 1/4 inch in diameter
Gently squeeze the paste into the bottle while using the bottle to suck the paste into it		Screw the tip onto the bottle and you are ready to henna!

Make sure to use lemon juice (or lime, and I have even had good results with vinegar) because the acidity of it changes the pH of the paste, causing a chemical reaction with the natural dye in the henna (hennotannins) and makes it darker. I don't suggest you use water (unless you are in a very hot climate without air conditioning) because it doesn't have the same darkening effect as an acidic liquid. Sugar is added to change the texture of the henna; it makes the paste smoother and makes it flow a little better. It also makes the henna paste dry more slowly which will keep it from cracking and flaking off. In Morocco, rose water or orange blossom water is added to the paste, but only for bridal henna. This give the paste a wonderful aroma. I also suggest adding a little bit of oil (olive oil or something similar) to the paste; this makes the paste more slippery allowing it to flow much more smoothly.

There are many who use other ingredients to darken the stain of their henna. The base of these liquids is usually tea to which a variety of herbs and spices is added, including fenugreek, black mustard seeds, black walnut extract, saffron, pomegranate juice etc.  I have not found any difference when using these ingredients but you can do your own experiments to see what works best for you. Some suggest using coffee in your henna paste. I have tried this and I must warn you: the caffeine WILL get into your body through your skin, so if you are sensitive or allergic leave out the coffee and tea, or just do your designs early in the day. If you really want to you can use decaf tea and coffee. I have never noticed a difference in the color of the stain when using tea or coffee; just think of that last time you spilled coffee or tea on your skin and it left a stain. There are some essential oils which may make a difference in the color, among them eucalyptus, pine, camphor and tea tree oil...add a few drops to your paste, but be careful because some people with sensitive skin may have a negative reaction to this oil. Again, do some side-by-side experiments with these ingredients to see what works best for you. See "Breaking News" for new information about terpene-rich essential oils (such as tea tree, cajeput, ravensara and frankincense, among others) and henna. If you are using terpene-rich essential oils the method for mixing the paste is a little different. I suggest that you mix your henna with lemon juice, sugar etc. (but no essential oils at this stage) as you normally do. Cover the bowl and leave at room temperature for 24 hours, after which add your terpene-rich essential oils. The amount to use is roughly 1/2 to 1 teaspoon of essential oil for every tablespoon of paste. After adding the essential oils, cover the bowl again and let it sit at room temperature for 24-48 hours before using. Through extensive experimentation, I find that this method works well for me. This may not work for you, given your body's chemistry, the weather in your area, etc. I strongly suggest that you try many different ways of mixing your paste to find a method that works for you. Vary the time you let the henna sit before you add the essential oils, vary the amount of essential oils you use, vary the time before you use the henna etc.

If you do want a darker stain, there are a few methods you can try. One method is to use camphor in your paste. This is usually camphor spirits (beware of the fumes, they can be pretty smelly) or camphor essential oil. Just a few drops in your paste will do the trick. The stain will come out darker but the drawback is that it usually doesn't last as long. Ammonia (common household variety) can be used after the paste is removed, but ONLY on the hands and feet - it is far too harsh for other areas of the body. As soon as you scrape the paste off, dip your hands or feet into ammonia for about 5 minutes. This speeds up the oxidation process of the henna dye causing it to darker quickly and deeply.

Another important aspect of henna paste-making is the time needed to achieve dye release; when the dye releases it is at its maximum staining power. This varies for different kinds of henna, but it can also vary from season to season. Moroccan henna usually releases its dye very quickly so you can use it right away; other hennas take longer (12-24 hours) so they must be mixed up the night before. There are several ways to test for dye release. One way is to mix your henna up in a bowl and leave the bowl in a warm place. When the surface of the paste starts to turn brownish, the dye is releasing and can be used. Another method is to put your paste in a plastic bag and lay it down on a piece of paper towel. When the dye releases it will pass through the plastic and begin to stain the paper towel. The last method I know of is to mix your paste up and test it on the palm of your hand; make a little dot, leave it on for 30 seconds and then wash it off. If there is any kind of stain it means the dye has released and you can use the paste. The only problem with this method is that you have to keep testing the paste which can become tiresome if the dye release takes many hours to achieve. Find a method that works for you and stick with it.

One more simple mixture is needed as a fixative for the henna once the design is finished:

• Dissolve 1 teaspoon of sugar in 2 teaspoons of lemon juice (preferably the lemon juice-clove mix from above)

• This should be gently dabbed onto the design once the paste starts to lose its shiny surface but before it starts to crack.

• This liquid performs many tasks: it boosts the acidity of the mixture making it stain darker, it keeps the paste moist so it doesn't crack and flake off, and the sugar in the mixture makes the henna stick to your skin while also making the cotton wisps stick to it when you wrap it up to protect it (see instructions below).

• There is an alternative to the lemon-sugar mixture; it's called New Skin; this is a liquid that paints on like nail polish (and smells like it too); it is great for protecting your henna while you sleep (see instructions below); it is difficult to remove but works great

• in Morocco, black pepper and garlic are also added to this mixture...they have a warming effect which will help to darken the stain but the smell may drive away loved ones

Instructions, tips, hints, tricks, etc.

Many, many pages of information have been written on every aspect of henna. You will find links to this information in my links page. I will also give you information which I think is essential for a wonderful henna experience.

What is the perfect henna experience? I believe that the ultimate result is a beautiful, dark and long-lasting design. It should be easy to prepare, it should be enjoyable to design, it should be easy to take care of, and it should be a meaningful and fun experience that you share with friends and/or clients.
 
Preparation:
1.  prepare your paste (see above)

2.  prepare your applicator

• I use a plastic bottle with a metal applicator - used for painting on silk, tips come in various sizes (0.5, 0.7 and 0.9 mm), Jacquard brand available in art supply stores (and through Maison Kenzi); this applicator gives a smooth consistent line and you can pop the tip off when you are done, close up the bottle and keep it in the fridge for future use. The drawback of this option, is that your hand gets tired more easily; you will get used to it and experience less pain, but don't count on being able to do henna for hours the first time out.

• plastic cone - made from heavy plastic bags (e.g.. ziploc or freezer bags); the henna flows with a gentle squeeze on the bag and the pull of gravity; this is the way it is traditionally done in India; another similar option is the carrot bag (the kind in which they sell jelly beans at Easter)

• syringe - this is how it is traditionally done in Morocco - you have to find a needle with a large enough diameter to allow the henna paste to pass through, but small enough to give a fine line (available through Maison Kenzi); I have used a glue syringe (found in an art supply store) which has a needle whose point has been cut off; the trick to using these is to push down the plunger just a little so you get a steady stream of henna paste and you don't want it to come out faster than you can draw with it; it is tough to master, but possible with some practice; the syringe is a great tool for doing long, straight lines

• if you want to get really traditional and Moroccan, try using a small pointed stick to apply the paste; I can't imagine how they can do this and get such fine lines but I have seen the results and it is amazing

• check out the sites on the links page for more ideas

3.  prepare the skin - it should be free of lotions, oils etc. so wash it or use rubbing alcohol to remove any residue - I have gotten good results by rubbing a little eucalyptus oil into the clean skin to open up the skin to accept the henna (don't put the essential oil directly on your skin if you are sensitive)

4.  design - here's the fun part...

Start by anchoring the henna to the skin then pull up and outward while steadily squeezing the henna out of the bottle in the direction where you want the henna to go	Gently lay down your string of henna where you want it	Remember to anchor and then lay down your line like laying down a length of rope on the ground

• you may feel nervous or stifled trying to draw using paste on skin; it is a strange concept and not as easy as drawing on paper, but remember that if you make a mistake, you can just wipe off the henna and start again (even a little glitch can be corrected with a toothpick)

• practice on some part of your body that doesn't usually show; try squiggles, spirals, straight lines, diamonds, etc. until you feel comfortable

• the idea is to lay the henna onto the skin, not to draw; your applicator tip shouldn't touch the skin but hover over the skin gently letting out a string of paste which falls where you direct it (imagine that you are holding a rope and you are laying it on the ground in different shapes)

• to steady yourself while drawing, brace your hand with your pinky, making sure not to touch the design

• if you can't think of a design, copy something you see in a book or website; if I am going to use a design from a book I like to redraw the design first with pen and paper first so I can get a feel for how it is constructed; you can also trace a design and then recreate it in henna

• finding designs: once you become aware you will probably start seeing henna designs everywhere you look, in decorative window gates, in embroidery, in jewelry, in tiles, in printed fabrics etc.  There are many resources on the internet, specifically for henna designs, but also designs in other media which can be adapted to henna; I suggest copying the designs (even tracing them) on paper before attempting them in henna; this is a good way to unravel complicated designs making it easier when you start to do them in henna (henna drawings)

• you can use a temporary tattoo to give you a template on which to draw your design; designs printed on an ink jet printer can also be used as transfers; simply wet your skin with a little alcohol, press the paper with the design onto your skin rubbing it for a few seconds and then remove it leaving a design over which you can henna

• stencils are available and are easy to use

• if you are a beginner, remember that arm bands and rings are difficult designs to do right - it is hard getting the two ends of the band to meet perfectly; start with simple, small designs like little medallions (if you want to try bracelets, trace the shape first with an eyeliner pencil to make sure your lines meet)

• henna designs come out darker and last longer on the palms of the hand and the soles of the feet, so if you are practicing, try another area of the body so that if you don't like the design it won't last too long and you can try again

• if you don't want orange nails for the next 3 months or so, try not to get it on your fingernails; they stain easily and don't fade - you will have to wait for them to grow out

• the more you practice the better you get - cliche but true

5.  dark and long-lasting (just the way I like my.....henna designs)

• keyword: Patience

• once the design is finished the paste will start to dry out; after the surface of the henna changes from shiny to matte and before it starts to crack, gently dab it with a cotton ball soaked in the sugar-lemon juice mixture (see above); make sure not to remove or squash the paste on your skin when you dab it

• keep the area of the design warm either over a candle or under a warm lamp; a hair dryer can work in cases where you need to dry the henna quickly, but usually this is too drying and causes the henna to crack

• if you need to warm an area such as the stomach or back or shoulder, use a heating pad or a hot water bottle (but wait until the henna is dry otherwise you will squash the design)

• the tradition in Morocco is to warm the area over a charcoal brazier onto which has been sprinkled incense or whole cloves

• periodically reapply the sugar-lemon mixture to keep the design moist and sticky; touch up any holes or breaks in your design with a little henna paste

• if you are using New Skin you can apply it (once the henna has dried) over the lemon-sugar mixture, or instead of it; gently paint it on, covering all the parts of your design

• if you really want the design to be dark and to last, I suggest that you sleep with it on; you must protect the design from flaking off while you sleep though

• beauty sleep:  after your last application of the sugar-lemon mixture (or New Skin) dries but is still sticky, take wisps of a shredded cotton ball and stick them to the design, continue until the whole design is covered; then, wrap the area in toilet paper, gauze or cheesecloth, not too tightly, but not loosely because the material will rub against the henna and remove it; fix the material in place with tape; if you are doing your hands or feet, I suggest putting socks or mittens or cotton gloves over the area while you sleep (your body heat keeps the moisture in and helps fix the design); if your henna design is on some other area of the body, try wrapping an ace bandage over it or sleeping with a heating pad (though, not all night)

• I usually wear a glove over my hand when I sleep; what I use is a chinese gardener's glove (pictured below) that is kind of stretchy so that it's easy to get on but forms to the shape of your hand once it's on; wrap your hand in toilet paper and then put the glove on over that

• another fixative that can be useful for large hennaed areas is liquid latex (though do NOT use it if you have an allergy to latex); it has the consistency of heavy cream and you can paint it on with your fingers; it dries quickly forming a layer of rubber sealing the henna to your skin; it should not be used on bendy parts as it will pull the henna off the skin and it needs a dusting of baby powder to keep it from sticking to itself; I believe that the ammonia in it makes the stain darker (I will experiment with this and report back to you)

• when you wake up and are ready to see your gorgeous design, unwrap yourself, and scrape the henna off (with your nails, a blunt knife, a comb); DO NOT wash it off (water is the enemy to dark,durable designs especially if you live in an area with a lot of chlorine in the water)

• if you are going to use ammonia to darken the stain this is the time to do it; for hands and feet, soak them in common household ammonia for 5-10 minutes; do not use ammonia on other areas of the body as this can be too harsh for this thinner skin

• try, try, try to keep it dry for at least the next 12 hours; if you must bathe (and we all must eventually), put olive oil on the design to protect it from the water, or wrap the area in a plastic bag; do not get soap on it or scrub it for at least 24 hours after application

• remember, the design will darken in the next few days, so don't despair if it is a little light to begin with

• to make your design last, rub lotion or oil into it daily, and try not to scrub it when bathing or doing housework and avoid using alphahydroxy lotions on it; you can also reapply the design using the faded one as your guide

Summary: good henna powder + acidity + heat + time = beautiful, dark, long lasting henna designs.  Enjoy!

come chat with us about henna at HennaTribe.com

 

                        email: neqasha@kenzi.com Copyright © 2001-2007 Maison Kenzi